What would be your formula for a trail? How about a forest of Ponderosa Pine and Douglas fir providing shade, but not so dense as to limit some great views? How about carpeting acres of that forest with a gorgeous lime-green quarter-size clover with white flowers emanating from the center of each leaf? How about towering rock formations of white rock on one side and red rock on the other? How about a few crossings of a seasonal stream and wildflowers of white, yellow, red and lavender color? How about making that hike challenging enough to make you feel as though you've had a good workout, and earned all those items you managed to witness on the trail? And, just for good measure, how about putting one end of the trail within a tenth of a mile from Oak Creek, just north of Sedona, and the other end within a tenth of a mile of an impressive natural rock arch - namely Vultee Arch. Well, someone has managed to do all that with the Sterling Pass Trail. You might guess by now, that this trail has become one of my personal favorites.

With all the amenities possible on this trail, this is not the trail you want to introduce to those relatives who are visiting from the Midwest and brag of hiking around the mall three times a week. Of course, if you don't like them very much and need a trail to "test" their stamina, this one may work well after all. They probably won't volunteer to hike with you again, but then again, maybe that is your plan.

Located just north of the Manzanita Campground, north of Sedona on Highway 89, I found a classic Sedona-area rusted trail marker bearing the name of Sterling Pass Trail #46. From this sign, the trail began climbing quickly. Within just under 5 minutes, and just before the first dry stream crossing (dry most of the year anyway) was an impressive view of the white and red rock formations this trail is sandwiched between.

Just as I passed this first streambed crossing, I paused to watch a hummingbird buzz through a large grove of manzanita. The hummingbird and I were a couple weeks too late to be able to enjoy seeing the manzanita in full bloom. After several minutes, and unable to find even one enticing flower, the hummingbird left - and so did I.

The trail began a slightly better than moderate grade through very impressive forest. The trees here were mostly Ponderosa Pine, but there were some rather robust Douglas fir placed in the mix. The trees provided shade from the AM sun for the next 15 minutes of hiking, as well as a filter to block out all noise of the cars on Highway 89 below. After this somewhat moderate grade, the trail began a seemingly relentless series of switchbacks continuing up to the peak of this trail - 1.65 miles from the trailhead. Once the switchbacks began, the forest seemed to thin a bit, but still provided enough shade to make the hike pleasant. As I climbed the switchbacks I was able to look eastward to enjoy the view over Oak Creek Canyon and onto the Mogollon Rim.

After hiking nearly a half-mile of switchbacks, I started noticing several small spur trails. After passing a couple of these, curiosity got the best of me and I began to explore a few. One very short spur veered left (south) as the main trail made a hard turn to the right. Taking this spur enabled a view of an adjacent canyon. A little rock scrambling up from the beginning of the spur managed to lead to what I first thought may have been a Native American dwelling, but instead was just a good-sized alcove in the rock.

Returning to the trail, and hiking just a few hundred more feet up the trail, I spotted another spur to the left that lead just a short distance into an interesting display of wind-eroded rock. As I climbed into this 3 foot wide passage of sandstone, towering perhaps 40 feet above, I felt as if someone had turned on the air conditioning. I could feel a cool and slightly misty breeze streaming along the rock which caused the temperature to drop dramatically.

The last spur I took was at the summit of this trail. The spur appeared pretty well-traveled and exited the main trail to the left (south) heading for a rock wall, then hugging it westward. I followed it until it seemed to end atop a large boulder. This provided a unique view of Sterling Canyon over the western side of the pass. A view that is not available from the trail itself due to the trees. I also discoverd 2 wildflowers along this stretch that I did not see on the main trail.

The peak of Sterling Pass seems to be a popular place for people to end their hike. That is too bad, as the 3/4 mile trail over the western side of the pass was gorgeous when I hiked it this day.

Immediately leaving the pass and heading west, the forest returned to shade the trail. For the most part it also limited the view, but there were a couple of spots which allowed me to peek through to the rock formations on each side of the trail. After hiking appoximately 15 minutes, I came to the most beautiful portion of the trail. Here there were acres and acres of lime-green clover covering the forest floor and stretching to the base of a formidable shear red rock formation. Each leaf of clover had a small 1/8 inch white flower emanating from its center. It was impossible not to stop several times and take in this view. Just when I thought it couldn't get any better, a stream began flowing along this stretch and on down to the end of the trail.

The last portion of the trail crossed the stream several times. It does not appear as though this stream would ever get big enough to limit hiking over it, but there may be a few days each year when this is the case.

The Sterling Pass Trail ended just as it crossed the stream to meet a Y with the Vultee Arch Trail. This Y was marked with a rusty sign pointing the way to Sterling Pass and Vultee Arch. By following the arrow for Vultee Arch, and hiking another 1/10 of a mile, I came upon a red rock tiered boulder which provided a view northerly to Vultee Arch. This did not limit my hike this day as I hiked around the arch and then to the Vultee Arch Trail #22 trailhead. If you are interested in those details, then you need to follow me to the Vultee Arch Trail.

Getting There: From Sedona, head north on Highway 89 for 6.2 miles. Look for mile marker 380 and the rock sign for Manzanita Campground to the right (east). There is another rock sign for Manzanita Campground on the left (west) side of the road, which is for the southbound traffic. The trailhead is on the left (west) side of the road about 1/10 of a mile north of that second sign. Park where you can along the road. Be especially careful walking along the road as traffic moves pretty well through there, and little room is available on the shoulder.

Stats: The eastern side provides a climb from 4,840 to 6,000 feet in 1.65 miles. The western side provides a climb from 5,160 feet to 6,000 feet in 0.75 miles. It is 1/10 of a mile, and about a 100 foot elevation change, to the viewing area for Vultee Arch from the western end of Sterling Pass Trail. Allow 3 to 4 hours for a round trip of just the Sterling Pass Trail. It took me 5 1/2 hours to hike, from the Sterling Pass Trail trailhead, then to the Vultee Arch Trail trailhead, then to Vultee Arch, and return to the Sterling Pass Trail trailhead.

Tips: I rank this trail as hard. There is little relief in the climb up both the western and eastern sides. I saw appoximately 15 people on the eastern side of this trail on the Saturday I hiked it. I only saw one couple and one family of four on the western side. No water was available on the eastern side of the trail. There is a streambed on the eastern side, but it was not flowing on my hike. Water was running pretty well in a stream on the western side, about 1/2 way down the trail and to its end. Restrooms and water are available at Manzanita Campground adjacent to the trailhead off of Highway 89. It is possible to park one car at the Sterling Pass Trail trailhead and another at the Vultee Arch Trail trailhead and make one hike of both trails.