Late last winter (1996) I tried to reach this trailhead but was turned around at Rainbow Rancho (see Getting There) because the road was truly impassable for my passenger car. This time I came prepared to hike from Rainbow Rancho to the trailhead (5 miles one-way) but was pleasantly surprised to find much work had been done to the dirt roads accessing this area. As a result, with some patience, I was able to make it to the larger than expected parking area at the trailhead.

I'm sure some people are going to look at the date of this hike and wonder what the heck I was doing hiking this trail in June. This is a 3 mile trail, climbing 2,502 feet in desert. I had been eyeing this hike for some time but was expecting to do it in the Fall after the Summer heat had subsided. For whatever reason, Arizona was graced with weather in the high 80's, so I took advantage of it.

With not a sole in sight, and after signing in at the BLM register found at the trailhead, I headed out. The first 5 minutes of this trail follows the remains of a 4WD/Jeep road which seemingly ends at a couple of large holes which were apparently once used for mining mica. The view up the canyon from here is impressive desert, full of ocotillo, saguaro, brittlebrush and palo verde. At this point the trail turns to the left where the trail is easily seen to carve up the side of the hill there. Within 10 more minutes, I found myself on a small saddle that allowed views to the north. Already the views to the west were impressive. From this ridge, switchbacks are used to climb the north-facing slope and to the top of the ridge that is followed the rest of the way to Quartz Peak.

The trail relies heavily on following the ridge, but when it dips from the ridge, almost always does so to the north-facing side. This made it nice for the early morning start I had (7:15 AM) in that the ridge provided shade for the trail from the rising sun.

After 45 minutes of hiking I was joined on the ridge by two turkey vultures. Though there were signs of fresh deer scat on the trail, the two vultures ended up being my only sighting of wildlife besides ever-present lizards. One of the lizards was quite unique to me in that, as this greenish 8 to 10 inch long lizard ran, it curled its tail back over its body in the same fashion a scorpion would. After circling for about 20 minutes, the vultures must have decided I looked strong enough to not become their breakfast, and left.

1 1/2 hours into the hike, the trail ceased being well cut and became a mile-long boulder hop that was marked by blue plastic tape tied to trees and shrubs. (Note: I've since been told that this tape no longer exists and it is necessary to pay attention to just staying on the ridge) Around this area there were a few saguaro blooming as were some agave. A little beyond this point I was able to make out the milky-white quartz rock at Quartz Peak. I found myself on the summit exactly 2 hours after I began.

The morning temperature was perfect. Having lived in the Phoenix area for 7 years, I was pleasantly surprised to be able to enjoy this type of day in June. I took the time to lay down on the quartz boulders. They were so cool, they felt as if they were refrigerated, providing a welcome rest from the 2,500 foot climb I had just done. The only drawback to the day was the haze that filled the valley. It was so hazy, I could not even make out downtown Phoenix just 30 miles northeast. Four Peaks was barely visible through the haze. The view to the southwest was a little better though it must be truly impressive on a clear day.

After enjoying the summit for a half-hour, I headed down. There are a couple of peaks higher than Quartz Peak (4,052 feet) in the Sierra Estrella Wilderness. It looks as if it is possible to boulder hop the ridge to Butterfly Mountain (4,119 feet) which is about a half-mile to the east. This was not going to be the day to try that feat however.

Upon reaching the mining area, I noticed a pair of fresh motorcycle tracks in the dirt. To get to this point, those motorcycles had to have crossed the well-marked wilderness boundary with signs prohibiting the use of motor vehicles. As is the case all too often, unfortunately some people just don't get it.

After reaching the trailhead, I took the time to add to my comments in the register and then check out some other entries. Two in particular intrigued me. One which was entered about 2 weeks prior to my hike read, "Did it topless." The other was about two days later which read, "Did it bottomless." Sounds like some interesting hikers, eh?

Getting there: From downtown Phoenix, allow for 2 hours of travel to get to this trailhead. You may be able to do better than that depending on what type of vehicle you use, but allow yourself the time.

From Phoenix, take I-10 West. Exit at Estrella Parkway and turn left (south). 8.5 miles later you will have entered the community of Estrella. At the stop sign (Elliot Road) take a right, and then a left on Rainbow Valley Road about 2.5 miles later. Follow Rainbow Valley Road for about 9.5 miles, then take a left on Riggs Road. Continue on Riggs Road for 4 miles until you come to a stop sign. At the stop sign, jog a bit to the right (do not turn right) and continue east on the dirt road which parallels a power line made of wood poles. Within 3/4 mile you will cross a cattle guard. A sign just pass the cattle guard will warn you that this is a "Dead End Road - Impassable." A little over 3 more miles you will pass Rainbow Rancho on your left which has a cannon in front with a humorous sign posted on it. The road from Rainbow Rancho winds through the desert for about 1 1/4 miles where it ends at another road. Here there is a BLM stake with the word "Trail" on it pointing to the right. Take a right and continue for almost 2 miles where you will see another BLM stake pointing left. Take a left here and continue just under 2 more miles until you reach the trailhead.

Stats: 3 mile trail climbs from 1,550 feet to 4,052 feet. My ascent took 2 hours, while the descent took 1 1/2 hours. No fee required.

Tips: The road (especially past Rainbow Rancho) is susceptible to flash floods. I would not recommend traveling these roads in ANY vehicle if rain is threatening. High clearance vehicle is recommended, but with patience, my passenger car made it just fine. If it has rained heavily, do not be surprised to find the road has washed out somewhere along the way. With the amount of boulder hopping required of this hike, be aware that rattlesnakes may be present. Leave the tennis shoes at home. No water is available.

Special thanks to Tim Hultsman for providing me the motivation for writing this one. Also, thank you to Jim Minnicks for providing information on his hike of this trail.