This hike is dedicated to the memory of Ralph Smith.

Third time is a charm. Isn’t that how the saying goes? Well for this hike it was. I had previously attempted a variation of this hike back in June but had to turn back early after not feeling well. The second attempt was two weeks prior to this successful attempt. That time I tried to hike this 6-mile loop in a counterclockwise direction but lost the Willow Springs Trail some 3 miles into the hike. This time I tried it in a clockwise direction and succeeded in completing the loop.

Arriving at the park at 8:00 AM, I utilized the self-pay envelopes to deposit my $2 fee, and helped myself to a topo map which is available at the large billboard next to the pay station. I utilized this map to head for what the map designates as the Willow Springs (trail E) trailhead. At the sizable parking lot I found only 2 other cars on this Saturday. Feeling the need to utilize the facilities before setting out, I walked over to the restroom next to the parking lot. I noted the pebbles and dirt surrounding the restroom as carefully raked. The restroom, as usual, was meticulously clean with no hint of the putrid odor one can usually depend on at a park. I feel a bit strange praising an area for its restrooms, but the White Tanks Regional Park deserves a Best of Phoenix rating for theirs. This park has always amazed me with its upkeep. There are water spigots throughout the park adjacent to the paved road. The covered picnic tables (with grilles) and restroom facilities are numerous yet almost entirely unused.

At the trailhead is a rather large sign denoting this as the Rock Knob Trail even though the map shows this as the Willow Springs trailhead. The map provided by the park can be a bit confusing as it notes the Willow Springs Trail as 3 miles in length. For this to be true, this trailhead must be included in the mileage. The map denotes the Rock Knob/Summit Trail (trail C) as 5.5 miles in length. For this to be true, you must include this trailhead and about 1.75 miles of the Slick Rock Cross Trail (trail G), plus an additional bit of trail that leads to the microwave towers, which is not shown on the map.

In any case, the Rock Knob and the Willow Springs trails share the first mile of trail. The first part of this trail is quite wide and flat, but soon begins its climb approximately 600 feet to a saddle which greets hikers with a sign pointing right denoting Mesquite Springs 1.2 miles away, and Willow Springs 2.5 miles. These distances are incorrect as Mesquite Springs is closer to .5 mile, and Willow Springs 2 miles.

70 yards to the left of this sign is a metal post which used to have a sign on it noting the way back (left from that sign) toward the Waterfall Trail. I headed for that post and bore right to follow the Rock Knob Trail. A few minutes from the metal post provided a good look back toward Phoenix. I was able to clearly make out the details of Squaw Peak and Camelback Mountain. Behind them Four Peaks (some 65 miles from the White Tanks) was visible through a slight whitish haze. I paused a minute to enjoy this scene and take a picture as too often this view eastward is obstructed by smog, making it hard to even discern the downtown buildings of Phoenix only 25 miles away.

45 minutes into the hike I came upon a hiker who pointed out two deer who were making their way up a mountain to the north. Another 100 feet up the trail I noticed a white steer with a cow and calf. While I stopped to reload my camera, I started hearing the sound of hoofs on rocks just above me. As I turned toward the noise, I caught a glimpse of another deer just feet away as she quickly made her way over the rocks and out of sight.

I traversed a rather flat portion of the trail and was greeted with a very steep ascent of about 300 feet on a loose and rocky part of the Rock Knob. After this ascent, the trail becomes quite narrow and in a few places becomes necessary to keep an eye out for cairns marking the trail. 2 miles into the hike, my attention was directed from the trail some 40 yards toward a set of cairns placed on a rock. This rock forms a cliff which provides an excellent place to stop and take in the view toward Phoenix. After a water break I headed back to the trail to continue up the mountainside west of this point.

After a few minutes, I came upon a wood post with a 4 on it. A few more minutes turned up a similar post. I suppose these were used at one time to mark the trails here. Just beyond the second post, and 1 hour 50 minutes into my hike, the Rock Knob Trail intersected with the Slick Rock Cross Trail. I took special note of this crossroads as it would be very easy to be traveling on the Slick Rock Cross, and hike on by the path for the Rock Knob. The Slick Rock Cross is very well defined at this point, but the end of the Rock Knob is not.

I took a right (heading north) and began a .5 mile, 400 foot descent on the Slick Rock which took 30 minutes. The first 5 minutes of this trail is very easy to follow as rocks border each side. Beyond this point however, the trail effectively ends and becomes what the map shows as a “route” instead a trail which leads to the bedrock river easily seen below. I followed what few cairns I could find while making my way down to the river. At the river I took a right which began my trip back on the Willow Springs Trail.

The trail utilizes the riverbed for about .3 miles eventually becoming a falls (though no water was flowing) which overlooks the pool of water below at Willow Springs. To make it around the falls it is necessary to backtrack up the riverbed perhaps 100 yards and head just over the rise to the north. There I found a decent trail which descended down to a homestead. Here there is a small corral, large watering tank and what is left of the foundation of a cabin, which I took some time to investigate. Once reaching the corral, taking a right leads you to the actual springs. I found plenty of water here as some was flowing (just beyond the drip stage) from the rocks into the pool.

I headed back past the corral and followed the trail into the riverbed once again. From here it is necessary to watch for cairns that lead 100 yards down the riverbed, and cross to the opposite side. The trail soon reenters the riverbed and 7 minutes from the corral the trail leaves the riverbed on the north side (left side as you walk down the river) climbing about 200 feet then gradually descends to the river once again where it crosses to the other side to ascend 400 feet. The view from here is into Willow Canyon where I was fortunate enough to see 5 deer meandering up the hillside to the east of the trail.

The Willow Canyon Trail descends again to cross the Mesquite Springs area then ascends to the saddle joining the Rock Knob Trail for the descent back to the parking lot.

The day before this hike, I learned that a friend was having her husband’s ashes spread over the White Tanks from a plane the Monday after this hike. Though I never met Ralph, the thoughts of him and his dog, Sugar, enjoying this area on their many hikes, made for good company on this hike. Thanks Ralph. Thanks Sugar.

In Jean's words, "He's Free." Free to enjoy this area for eternity.

Getting there: From Phoenix, take Olive Road west until it ends at the entrance to the White Tanks. Follow White Tank Mountain Road for about 1.5 miles, then take a left on Waterfall Canyon Road. Take another left on Ramada Way to trailhead parking.

Stats: Ascent on Rock Knob is 1330 feet in about 2.75 miles. Ascent on Willow Springs Trail is approximately 850 feet with much up and down making a net of 1470 feet in about 3 miles.

Tips: $2 Fee. Park opens at 6 AM. With the discoveries to be had on these trails, allow 5 hours for this loop hike. Do this loop in a clockwise direction as trails are easier to follow. There is very little shade in the White Tanks limiting summer hiking to early morning hours.